Lighting install help before you get stuck

What should I check before fully installing the bulbs?

• Review the Installation Guides page when an install PDF or diagram is available.
• Connect and test all components before locking bulbs inside the housings.
• Confirm each connector is fully seated. If a connector does not click or can pull apart easily, secure it where appropriate.
• Check the vehicle fuse for the affected lighting circuit.

The bulb does not fit. What now?

Confirm the replacement size in the owner's manual and, ideally, by removing the original bulb from the vehicle. Some trims use different bulbs depending on headlight package.

If the bulb is the correct size but feels too tight, the o-ring may be slightly different from the factory bulb. In some cases, swapping the o-ring from the original halogen bulb can help the LED or HID bulb seat correctly.

One side is not working or seems to be failing.

• Reverse polarity by flipping the vehicle-side connector if possible.
• Make sure all plugs, drivers, ballasts, and extension leads are fully connected.
• Swap the suspect part to the opposite side. This is also a common first step before a warranty claim.
• Check whether the issue stays on the vehicle side or follows the component.

I have a bulb-out warning on the dash.

First confirm that all exterior bulbs are working, including bulbs you did not just replace. If everything is functioning, the new LED or HID system may not be drawing power within the range expected by the vehicle's bulb-monitoring system.

A decoder, CANBUS module, or capacitor may be required. See our CANBUS and Decoders page for more detail.

My dual-beam bulb low or high setting is not working properly.

For dual-beam bulbs such as H4, H13, 9004, or 9007, low/high problems are often pinout related. Some LED and HID systems allow the pins to be moved to match the vehicle configuration.

For 9004 vs 9007 pin references, check the Installation Guides page.

The bulb fits, but the dust cap or cover will not close.

Some LED bulbs, HID wiring, or external drivers need more rear clearance than the original halogen bulb. Do not crush wires, force the cap closed, or leave the housing unsealed where water and dust can enter.

If the cap does not close, you may need a different bulb style, a larger dust cap, or a different product approach for that housing.

Should I cut, drill, or modify the headlight housing?

Permanent housing or wiring modifications should be a last resort. If the bulb, wiring, or driver does not fit cleanly, contact us first with photos of the housing and original bulb setup.

Basic safety checks

• Turn headlights and fog lights off before working.
• Make sure the ignition is off and the vehicle is parked safely.
• Let the engine bay cool before reaching around housings or wiring.
• Use gloves and eye protection when appropriate.
• Do not touch HID bulb glass. Oils from skin can shorten bulb life.

The light is bright, but the beam looks scattered or uneven.

• Confirm the bulb is fully seated and locked into the housing.
• Check LED clocking so the emitters face the correct direction.
• Make sure the bulb base, adapter, or retaining clip is not holding the bulb crooked.
• Compare the output against the original bulb position before driving at night.

Should headlights be aimed after installing bulbs?

Yes, it is a good idea to check aim after any headlight work. Park on level ground facing a wall or garage door and make sure the beam is not aimed too high. A clean beam pattern should put usable light down the road without excessive glare.

My vehicle has factory LED, factory HID, adaptive headlights, or sealed lighting.

Do not force a standard LED or HID replacement bulb into a non-standard factory lighting system. Some factory LED and adaptive systems do not use a normal replaceable bulb. Use the Shop by Vehicle tool or contact us before ordering.

Is a brighter bulb always better?

No. A brighter bulb only helps when the housing can control the light. Poor alignment, wrong bulb position, or a mismatch between bulb and housing can reduce useful output and increase glare.

How should LED bulbs be positioned or clocked?

The diodes should generally face left and right, not up and down. If the bulb allows rotation, make small adjustments to match the original halogen beam pattern and hotspot as closely as possible.

• In reflector housings, the smallest end or opening of the LED bulb usually points upward for low beam and downward for high beam.
• In projector housings, the smallest end or opening usually points upward for low beam use.
• If the bulb sits at a slight angle because of housing design, small adjustments may be normal.

The LED bulb is not turning on.

• Confirm the vehicle is powered on and the headlight selector is active.
• If the vehicle has automatic headlights, test in a dark environment so the lights actually trigger.
• Swap the LED bulb from driver side to passenger side. If the issue moves, the bulb or driver may be the issue.
• If the bulb has a separate driver, swap the driver separately if possible.
• If using decoders, test with and without the decoder to isolate the problem.

The LED bulb flickers constantly during use.

A decoder, capacitor, or anti-flicker module may be required when the vehicle uses PWM power control or bulb monitoring. Some LED bulbs may also be incompatible with low-voltage DRL power ranges.

My high beam bulb is also used as a daytime running light.

Some vehicles run the high beam bulb at reduced power for DRL use. Not every LED bulb behaves correctly on a reduced-power DRL circuit. Symptoms can include flicker, partial output, warning lights, or the bulb not dimming as expected.

If your high beam also acts as the DRL, confirm the product supports that type of use or contact us before ordering.

The LED flickers briefly at startup or shutdown.

Some vehicles send brief bulb-check pulses to the original halogen circuit. Halogen bulbs do not visibly react to those pulses, but LEDs can flash quickly because they respond instantly.

Small LEDs may also flicker briefly after shutdown while residual power leaves the circuit. If the flicker continues or affects normal use, a decoder or capacitor may be needed.

My relay harness buzzes, flickers, or the lights randomly turn off.

The vehicle's PWM power control may be sending an uneven signal. A decoder or capacitor can help stabilize the signal so relays and ballasts behave properly.

What is the green wire coming from the ballast?

This is a ground wire. Grounding the HID system to the vehicle is strongly recommended because it provides a stronger and safer ground than relying only on the factory lighting connector.

H11A or H11B, and H7A or H7B. Which one do I need?

These are HID-specific fitment differences and should not be confused with standard halogen bulb naming. See our H11A vs H11B and H7A vs H7B page for the details.

35W or 50/55W HID ballasts. What is the difference?

35W HID systems are typically recommended for stock and aftermarket headlight or fog-light housings. A 50W or 55W HID system can emit more heat and UV than the housing was designed to handle, which may damage reflector or projector surfaces over time.

Unless you are confident the housing can handle higher HID power, 35W is usually the safer choice.

What is an HID relay harness used for?

A relay harness pulls power directly from the battery instead of relying only on the OEM headlight connector. This can help vehicles with small factory wiring or unstable startup power.

If the vehicle uses bulb-warning systems, a CANBUS system may be a better choice than a relay-only setup.

One HID bulb looks like a different color than the other.

New HID bulbs can shift slightly in color during break-in. If one side remains noticeably different after normal use, swap bulbs from side to side to see whether the color difference follows the bulb or stays with the ballast/vehicle side.

The HID lights take a moment to reach full brightness.

That is normal. HID bulbs warm up after ignition and usually take a short period to stabilize in brightness and color. If a bulb repeatedly shuts off, flashes, or will not stabilize, check connections, grounds, relay/CANBUS setup, and ballasts.

Why do some H7 bulbs need adapters?

Many H7 applications use a special factory connector or retaining clip. Since LED and HID bulbs are shaped differently than the original halogen bulb, an adapter may be required to hold the bulb securely.

Review available options on the H7 Adapters product page. If you are unsure which style is needed, send us photos of the original bulb, retainer, and housing opening.

What is the TIPM issue?

Many newer Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep, and Ram vehicles use a TIPM, or Totally Integrated Power Module, to regulate electrical circuits. GMC and other vehicles may use similar power-control behavior in lighting circuits.

For HID conversions, a CANBUS-style system may help prevent issues. For LED bulbs, a decoder or capacitor may be required. In some main low-beam applications, LED bulbs may still not behave correctly and HID may be a better option.

Before opening a support request, gather this if possible.

• Vehicle year, make, model, trim, and headlight package if known.
• Product name, bulb size, order number, and which side is affected.
• Photos of the original bulb, the new bulb installed, the connector, and the rear of the housing.
• A short description of what happens: no power, flicker, warning light, one side out, color mismatch, fitment issue, or beam pattern issue.
• Results from swapping the bulb, driver, ballast, decoder, or harness from one side to the other.

When should I stop troubleshooting and contact BRI Source?

Stop and contact us if you smell burning, see melted plastic, the wiring becomes hot, the fuse repeatedly blows, the bulb will not seat securely, or the vehicle has factory LED/adaptive lighting and you are unsure what is replaceable.